This Schaffhausen host only pours local wines

Restaurants all over the country are focussing on cuisine with regional ingredients. However, this endeavour often stops at the wine list. Not so at "Gmaandhuus 8213" in Neunkirch, Schaffhausen: almost all of the 40 or so wines on the menu come from the region.

Behind this is host and manager Marco Rüedi. He grew up in Klettgau and worked at the post office for a long time. He then graduated from hotel management college as a career changer – and has now been welcoming guests to his restaurant with great passion for eight years.

Marco Rüedi, what makes a good wine list for you?

Variety and diversity. I like to try a foreign wine once in a while. In our restaurant, however, we focus on regionality. You hear a lot about this everywhere, but it's not always practised when it comes to wine. I think that's a shame.

Variety is important to you, but at the same time you focus almost exclusively on Schaffhausen wines – isn't that a contradiction?

The local wineries produce a wide variety of wines and the wine styles are very different. Global warming has the advantage that grape varieties such as Malbec and Merlot can now also be cultivated. In the past, Pinot Noir and Riesling-Silvaner were the undisputed main varieties. This is still the case today, but there are now many more specialities.

What characterises Schaffhausen wines?

They are very interesting and of a super quality. Sometimes I say: Life is too short to drink bad wine – that's why we only drink Schaffhausen wine.

How do guests react to your wine list?

Some ask: Oops, is there only Swiss wine? I can usually convince guests that the wines are no longer as sour as they might have been 20 or 30 years ago.

Do you have to clear up old prejudices?

They do still exist. When I then serve them a full-bodied wine with a lot of character, Schaffhausen wine is rehabilitated (laughs).

Why is it important to you to offer wines from local winegrowers – at the risk of not catering to every taste?

I don't see any risk of people drinking less wine here. Besides, so many people work in the vineyards in the region. If they feel that the catering represents the local area, they are more likely to visit. This opens up opportunities for better networking.

Are you also interested in cooperation between gastronomy and viticulture?

Absolutely. I used to have Prosecco on the menu. Until I asked myself: I'm focussing on local wines everywhere, why not here too? Of course, the sparkling wine from Schaffhausen is two or three francs more expensive. But in return, I'm strengthening the region.

How do you select new wines?

A lot happens on a personal level. The Schafuuser Wiiprob takes place at the end of August. You can taste the wines of 30 to 40 winemakers there. It's always a tough evening (laughs). If I'm interested in something, I make a note of it and visit the cellar later.

Do you sometimes miss a local wine selection in other restaurants?

In a pizzeria, I think it's okay that they also have Italian wines. In a wine region, on the other hand, local wines should be better represented.

How could this be improved?

The guest has to be flexible and accept this. And as a host, you need a bit of courage and the attitude to just go for it. If it didn't work, I would have changed my wine list long ago. But that's not necessary.